The 1,000-foot cliffs of Zion National
Park that border the open range of Smith Mesa glowed orange and red,
like hot coals. The sun slinked low on the opposite side of a wide sky.
Bill Wright, 60, stopped his pickup on the dirt road, dusty from
drought. He walked west, weaving through green junipers, scraggly shrub
live oak, flowering barrel cactus and dried cow pies last spring. His
pointed boots left a string of meandering arrows in the red sand. The boys were off riding
saddle broncs on the professional rodeo circuit’s Texas swing —
somewhere between Austin, Nacogdoches and Lubbock, Bill could never keep
up. Bill’s wife, Evelyn, was at home, two hours north in Milford, Utah,
teaching at the elementary school. Bill was alone, living in a camper,
eating from a skillet, surrounded by silence and 20,000 acres of rugged
rangeland hiding a few hundred of his cattle. The sand gave way to stair-stepped
rocks, like risers on which enormous choirs might perform, until the
last one dropped off several hundred feet. The canyon below was a deep
and jagged cut in the forever landscape of southern Utah, as if carved
by impatient gods with a dull knife. The Wrights have been running
cattle in the area for more than 150 years, since great-great
grandparents arrived beginning in 1849 during the Mormon migration. “My boys will be the sixth
generation,” Bill said. His mouth never opened very far when he spoke.
“And Cody’s boys will be the seventh.” Cody Wright is the oldest
of seven boys among Bill and Evelyn’s 13 children. The boys, ages 18 to
37 and similarly built — like a litter of puppies, Bill said — are a
posse of the world’s best saddle bronc riders. Taut-muscled and not too
tall, they are able to muster the guts, strength and balance to ride a
bucking horse like few others, as if genetically gifted to do so. A
Wright boy has won the saddle-bronc world title every even-numbered year
since 2008. Cody won twice, in 2008 and
2010. Jesse, now 25, won in 2012. Jesse’s twin, Jake, was second in
2013. In 2014, those three and a fourth Wright boy, Spencer, 24,
qualified for the sport’s most prestigious event, December’s National
Finals Rodeo — a record for one family. But rodeo careers can end
without warning, as quick as the next try at an eight-second ride. So
the boys, most with families to support, increasingly plug their rodeo
earnings into Bill’s modest ranching business. While they crisscross
tens of thousands of miles to more than 100 events a year across the
West, Bill shepherds the growing herd back home in Utah...more
A great article, well worth your time, and from the NY Times no less.
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